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The Path of Counts Tiškevičius

The Path of Counts Tiškevičius

Counts Tiškevičiai, who ruled Kretinga from the second half of the 19th century, left an indelible mark on this city. Continuing the work of the nobles who ruled Kretinga before that, the counts took great care of religious objects, nurtured and expanded a park famous throughout Lithuania, introduced world-class innovations and created an exceptional cultural oasis in Samogitia. And now in Kretinga, we can see the legacy of the Tiškevičius family in many places. Scattered throughout the city, it invites you to get to know what this honourable family built not only for themselves, but also for future generations. Walking along the Path of Counts Tiškevičius, we also get to know the unique objects of historical and cultural heritage recorded in the Book of Outstanding Achievements of Lithuania: the highest cemetery gate, the oldest church door, the highest wooden altar, the oldest working organ, the oldest sundial.

The Tiškevičius Manor with a Winter Garden

The route of the Path of Counts Tiškevičius is worth starting with the Kretinga Museum, which has been operating for 30 years in the former palace of the Tiškevičius Manor. The history of Kretinga Manor takes us back to 1874, when Count Juozapas Tiškevičius (1835–1891) bought the manor at auction, which dates back several centuries and was owned by several generations of nobles, and soon moved his family’s residence here from Lentvaris Manor. Until then, the noblemen of the Zubovas family, who had ruled the manor, had built a brick palace and started creating an English-style park. The new owners reconstructed the palace, established a library, the White Hall for banquets and the Pink Hall for music. After the extension of the palace, an impressive winter garden was created, which became one of the largest private conservatories in Europe at the end of the 19th century. Count J. Tiškevičius, who liked innovations, installed the first hydroelectric power plant in Lithuania in the manor mill in 1878, and in 1882 he introduced the first telephone line in Lithuania to the palace, connecting Kretinga Manor with Plungė Manor and Rietavas Manor. Later, other manors of the count’s family were also telephoned, so it was possible to manage them without leaving Kretinga. In the palace, you can see an example of the first telephone by visiting the Manor Culture Exposition, where if you pick up the ringing phone, you can hear the stories of the nobles themselves about the life of this palace. After getting to know the palace and the authentic heritage of the Tiškevičius family exhibited in it, it is necessary to visit the winter garden, where the renovated conservatory will not only remind you of the people who lived here but will also allow you to hide from cold weather or heat. A rich variety of exotic plants, a fountain gushing in the pool with fish swimming in it will transport the visitor to the world of eternal summer, where there is never cold, rain or windy weather.  After familiarizing yourself with the palace, the winter garden and the park, it is a must to visit the unique museum expositions and the manor candy store located in the renovated manor buildings on the other side of Vilnius Street, where you can not only taste the delicacies produced here or buy them, but also observe or participate in their production process.

Manor Park

Already at the end of the 19th century, guests from all over Europe came to admire this well-kept park, widely famous for its beauty. Cascading ponds have survived to this day: the first of them was intended for duck hunting, the second for romantic boat rides, and the third one for eye relief when looking through the palace window. Some avenues of lime trees, chestnut trees, and the romantic stone of Love are also preserved. While walking around the park, it is worth stopping at the astronomical calendar with a sundial. The unique complex not only decorates the park, but also helps to get acquainted with the traditions of ancestors and memorable dates.

Complex of Farm Buildings

Counts Tiškevičius were wealthy landowners, so more than 20 outbuildings have survived in their estate. The old distillery standing by the road is one of the earliest brick buildings of the manor. Next to it, the farmer’s house was resurrected, in the garage of which rare cars were kept at that time. Now the administration of the museum is located here, and an exposition of the city’s history has been established. A flowing, stony stream connects the farmer’s house with the former water mill. One of the oldest outbuildings of the manor has been adapted for an ethnographic exhibition and reminds of the sweets and chocolate workshops that operated here, the traditions of which are now continued by the manor candy shop located here, where a unique chocolate with cracklings is made according to the old recipe of Tiškevičius. Nearby, there is a renovated wheelhouse and a greenhouse, which houses a centre of traditional crafts.

Chapel-Mausoleum of the Counts Tiškevičius Family

In 1893, the family’s neo-Gothic chapel-mausoleum was built under the care of Count Aleksandras and his mother Sofija. It was designed by Karlas Eduardas Strandmanas (1867-1946), an architect of Swedish origin who lived in Latvia, for whom it was the first realized project in Lithuania, when later churches designed by him were erected in Palanga, Salantai and other parts of the country. In this chapel, next to the eternal rest of Count Juozapas, granddaughter Marija was laid to rest in 1896, wife Sofija in 1919, daughter-in-law Jadvyga in 1939, grandson Kazimieras in 1941 and an unknown woman in 1931, possibly the governess of this family. The sarcophagi of the count himself, his wife, granddaughter and the unknown woman were hidden by walling them up at the will of Count Aleksandras. They were found in 2014, restored, the remains were examined, and the findings found are exhibited in the Kretinga Museum. The chapel and the sarcophagi kept in the mausoleum can be viewed during excursions, the chapel is open to visitors free of charge on every All-Souls’ Day.

The Northern Gate of the Old Cemetery II of Kretinga Parish

The cemetery fence and the neo-Gothic gate were designed by Juozapas Padlevskis (1863-1943), an architect of Polish origin who lived in Petersburg at the time, matching them to the previously built chapel-mausoleum. Built in 1913, the 9.8-meter-high and 8.4-meter-wide gate has three parts, with an open central opening and side openings covered with turrets. Looking from Vilnius Street, above the left side of the gate in the concrete inset there is an embossed inscription ANNO DOMINI (Year of the Lord), above the right side – MCMXIII (1913).

The Southern Gate of the Old Cemetery II of Kretinga Parish

The southern neo-baroque cemetery gate with a height of 9.9 m and a width of 4.4 m, slightly higher than the northern one, as well as the 110 m long cemetery fence, are also the work of architect J. Padlevskis. They are recorded in the Book of Outstanding Achievements of Lithuania as the highest cemetery gates in Lithuania. The fence covered with a gabled roof of red bricks and broken stones is considered the most ornate cemetery fence in Lithuania, and the Latin inscription 1913/DEUS SPES NOSTRA (1913 / God is our hope) on the upper part of this gate expresses the hope of the people buried here to rise to eternal life after death.

Count Tiškevičius Bridge

More than 100 years ago, Kretinga could be divided into two parts – the monastery and the manor. These two parts were connected by the love of Counts Tiškevičius for Kretinga. It was their family that financed the reconstruction of the Catholic church by enlarging it at the beginning of the 20th century, it also financed the construction of this bridge that connected these two parts of Kretinga in 1882. The qualitatively built bridge improved the connection between the manor and the city centre. The Tiškevičius family used to go to church over it, and it is used even now when walking or driving along the renovated Vilnius Street. The bridge comfortably hugs the bed of the Dopultis stream rushing towards the Akmena river, and its ancient masonry can be admired when visiting the Lourdes. This bridge has recently been named after Count Juozapas Tiškevičius.

Church of the Annunciation of the Lord to the Blessed Virgin Mary

The church built in 1610-1617 at the expense of Jonas Karolis and Sofija Chodkevičius next to the Bernardine monastery is considered the oldest surviving Catholic church in Samogitia. Having repeatedly suffered from the attacks of foreign armies, it was reconstructed several times, it acquired its current appearance after the reconstruction carried out in 1908-1912, the main supporter and organizer of which was Count Aleksandras Tiškevičius (1864-1945). According to the project of Krakow architect Slawomir Odrzywolski (1846-1933), the reconstructed church became three-nave, its plan took the form of a Latin cross, and the newly built tower resembled one of the towers of the Wawel Castle in Krakow. Unfortunately, this tower, the only one of this shape in Lithuania, burned down during the great Kretinga fire on June 26, 1941, although other unique objects in the church miraculously survived. The current tower was rebuilt in 1982 at the initiative of priest Bronislovas Burneikis.

The Oldest Church Door in Lithuania

As soon as you enter the church, your eyes are drawn to the impressive doors that were used to be opened by Counts Tiškevičius and saw the warlord Jonas Karolis Chodkevičius. This is the oldest door in Lithuania, more than 400 years old, that has miraculously survived through various adversities. Legends say that they were ordered by the warlord himself. Among all the Catholic churches in Lithuania, this door stands out for its abundant three-dimensional sculptural decoration of wood carvings, where you can recognize the members of the Chodkevičius family and the coats of arms of this family and family. A smaller door of the same age leading to the sacristy is also decorated with wood carvings.

The Oldest Sundial in Lithuania

Another unique object awaits visitors in the inner courtyard of the monastery – the oldest sundial in Lithuania. The 79 cm high stone pedestal in the middle of the courtyard dates back to 1610, when it was installed in the newly built Bernardine monastery. After changing its location several times, losing its time-telling hand and division scale, it was placed in this courtyard in 2000 and is awaiting its renovation, when it will be able to tell the time again.

The Chodkevičius Family Crypt

When visiting the church with a tour, you can see the crypt of the Chodkevičius family, located under the high altar of the church. The remains of Sofija Mieleckaitė-Chodkevičienė, the wife of the great warlord J.K. Chodkevičius, their sons Jonas Kazimieras and Jeronimas Krizostomas, and their niece Kristina Chodkevičiūtė-Farensbach rest in the renovated tin sarcophagi. In 2021, when the 400th anniversary of the great warlord’s death was commemorated, his cenotaph was placed in this crypt, thus symbolically fulfilling his own will, as his current burial place is unknown.

The Tallest Wooden Altar in Lithuania

As soon as you enter the church, you will see an impressive baroque altar shining with marble. The 16 m high and 8.2 m wide wooden altar dating back to the 17th century is the tallest in Lithuania. It is decorated with 21 wooden sculptures, 15 of which have survived since the construction of the church. Since marble was an expensive material, talented craftsmen decorated the altar wood with veins of oil paint imitating it in brown, blue and brown colours, so the altar looks luxurious and is the only one decorated in this way in Lithuania.

The Oldest Playing Organ in Lithuania

In front of the great altar of the church, on the left side, there is a small but special organ. This organ, made around 1680 by Kuršas or Karaliaučius craftsmen, is the oldest known, dated and functioning organ in Lithuania. This is also the only organ in Lithuania with a short octave, which gives the opportunity to play old organ music. It is played by famous organists during the international early music festival held in Kretinga every summer.

While walking along the Path of Counts Tiškevičius, you can get acquainted not only with the history of the manor and the marks left by this honourable family. Next to the Catholic church and the Franciscan Monastery there is the old town of Kretinga, where you can visit many tourist attractions. The town of Kretinga was founded in 1609 by the famous nobleman and military commander Jonas Karolis Chodkevičius (1570–1621).

Kretinga Evangelical Lutheran Church

The Tiškevičius family has also left its mark in the history of the Evangelical Lutheran community of Kretinga, which goes back several hundred years. After the church of this community burned down in 1889, Count Aleksandras Tiškevičius also made a significant contribution to its reconstruction, donating the wood needed for its construction, even though he himself professed the Catholic faith. Thanks to the efforts of Kretinga and foreign Lutheran evangelicals, among whom was King Wilhelm II of Prussia, who donated 1,500 marks for its construction, the new church was ceremoniously consecrated in 1899. An organ made in 1785 by Johann Preuss (1722–1798), the famous organ master of Karaliaučius, has been installed in it, which has survived to this day and is one of the oldest organs in Lithuania.

The doors of the Lutheran church are opened on those Sundays when services are held – half an hour before and half an hour after services and during religious holidays.

St Anthony’s Palace

St Anthony’s House, St Anthony’s College, American Palace – these are the names of St Anthony’s Palace, built between the wars in 1934, where the Franciscan Gymnasium now operates. Between the wars, the palace was intended for emigrants returning to Lithuania from abroad to settle down. Unfortunately, the beautiful idea was ruined by the Second World War. Both Nazi and Soviet power structures were located in St Anthony’s Palace. In the basements of the building, traces left by people who were imprisoned and tortured here can still be found, which can be viewed during organized tours.

The Lourdes Grotto of Kretinga

The Lourdes Grotto of Kretinga was built by the Franciscans in 1933, when the real French Lourdes celebrated its 75th anniversary. It has long been believed that the spring flowing near the Lourdes Grotto of Kretinga is magical and healing. Built from the stones of the demolished brewery, the Lourdes of Kretinga attracted as many as 25 thousand pilgrims from all over Lithuania during the opening ceremony. During the war and the Soviet era, the white marble altar of the Lourdes Grotto was destroyed, but the sculptures decorating the grotto have survived to this day.

The Grave of Jurgis Ambraziejus Pabrėža (1771–1849).

Franciscan priest and monk Father Ambraziejus was one of the most outstanding Lithuanian educators of the 19th century, who healed people’s souls with his sermons and taught them to live righteously. He was also the first researcher of the flora of Lithuania, a botanist whose works have a great lasting value. And the people of Samogitia remember and respect him as a man of holy life and a doctor of ordinary people. After his death, J.A. Pabrėža was buried in a respectable place in the cemetery in front of the chapel of St George, a stone cross was placed on his grave. In 1933, the Franciscan monks built a neo-Gothic chapel on his grave, which is still visited by many people, who light candles and pray asking for various favours.

Town Hall Square

The Town Hall Square of Kretinga is an urbanistic monument of the 17th century. Although the town hall did not survive, the square plan and street network retained their authenticity after a fire destroyed most of the city centre on June 26, 1941. 2 monuments can be visited in the Town Hall Square. One of them is dedicated to the founder of the city, Jonas Karolis Chodkevičius, who seems to be looking from the past to the present through the open door. The author of the monument, for which granite brought from Finland was used, was sculptor Adomas Skiesgelas from Kretinga, who was assisted by sculptor Rimas Eidėjus from Mosėdis. Another monument erected in the Town Hall Square is intended to mark the 10th anniversary of the independence of the Republic of Lithuania. It was created by the famous Lithuanian sculptor Robertas Antinis (1898–1981). In 1928, monuments commemorating this date were built in many Lithuanian cities and towns. It was unveiled and consecrated in Kretinga in 1931. After the war, the monument was toppled and thrown into the Akmena river by order of the Soviet authorities. The current monument was restored and unveiled on February 16, 1990, commemorating the anniversary of the restoration of the state of Lithuania. On that occasion, a capsule with the City Metrics for future generations was concreted into the foundation stone of this monument. Parts of the old monument were found in the river Akmena in 1989 and are now displayed in the yard of the farmer’s house of the Kretinga Museum.

Itinerary

Itinerary objects

Kretinga Museum
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Kretinga Museum

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Kretinga Manor Park
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Kretinga Manor Park

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Housekeeper's house
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Housekeeper's house

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Kretinga Manor Watermill
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Kretinga Manor Watermill

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Traditional Craft Centre of Kretinga Museum
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Traditional Craft Centre of Kretinga Museum

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Earls Tiškevičius family chapel
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Earls Tiškevičius family chapel

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Ensemble of the Franciscan Monastery and the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church
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Ensemble of the Franciscan Monastery and the Annunciation of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

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Evangelical Lutheran Church
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Evangelical Lutheran Church

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Grave of Jurgis Pabrėža
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Grave of Jurgis Pabrėža

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Saint Anthony Palace
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Saint Anthony Palace

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Lourdes grotto
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Lourdes grotto

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Central Square of Kretinga
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Central Square of Kretinga

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